Just finished a project with the beautiful juban fabric that was included in my last order!
Thought you may want to see :)
I used Rory pattern from seamwork.com with some modifications (instructions for adding the basic peplum is on the seamwork site,
but I made quite a few other modifications)
I attached a lot of different photos- a few with more technical
close ups (on the seams etc.)
Because the bolt widths are smaller than what most modern western patterns are made for picking the right pattern to work with is important. The sleeve cap in most western patterns usually is wider than the typical 12” (or less) – 14” width of kimono fabrics and I have found is the most difficult pattern piece to either fit or piece together using kimono fabric. Picking out patterns that you can either color block, piece or simple patterns with kimono or small dolman sleeves is the easiest option.
The pattern I used for this shirt included a short kimono sleeve. Both the front and the back measured 11” from center front to sleeve end, the fabric I used for this top was 12” in width. I cut out four of each pattern piece – R & L fronts, R & L backs and same with the lining (using the same fabric). I placed the center and back front (that was supposed to be cut on the fold) right at the selvage edge sewed this seam together with a ¼ inch seam, ironed open the seam and top stitched along each edge.
I followed the instructions that came with the pattern to finish most of the rest, using a modification that included a peplum posted on seamwork.com. I did have to lower the front neckline a bit as the pattern was made for knit fabrics and skipped the neckline band. I took out about a inch of length from the pattern as I am quite petite (4’11”!) and had to make the peplum shorter as I was running short on fabric!
(Longer, technical description):
I then stitched the front to the back at the shoulder seams of the
lining and outer fabric using serger for a lightweight, sturdy seam-
this fabric was particularly prone to fraying. Sewed the lining to
the outer fabric at the neck edge then understitched. Stitched
together lining and outer pieces at the side seams then stitched
together lining to outer fabric at the armholes.
Next, I stitched the bottom edge of the outer and lining fabric together with the peplum pieces (drafted using remaining pieces of kimono fabric) usinga serger. Stitched ~ 3/8 inch from this seam leaving about a inch opento insert 1/4 inch elastic I cut to be about the size I needed to fitaround my waist. Inserted the elastic and finished up this seam.
I used a rolled hem on my serger to finish as I wanted a bit more
body to the peplum hem (otherwise would probably have done
a hand sewed rolled seam).
Other notes- With kimono silks I found it helpful using a new,
sharp small needle and a machine with a small hole in the
throat plateso the fabric does not bunch under the throat plate.
I usually use my old 1940’s singer machine which works out
perfectly! You can also get a variety of throat plates for new
With finicky fabrics like silk I nearly always baste together seams
before finishing the seam. Starching the fabric can also be helpful.
I usually use the selvage edge and this type of seam as much as possible with kimono fabrics as it gives a light weight seam with
a ready made seam finish.
Newport News, Virginia